Chicha de Guiñapo is not just an ancestral drink; it is a cultural symbol of the city of Arequipa. This traditional beverage, made from germinated black corn, has accompanied the people of southern Peru for centuries in celebrations, meals, and rituals. Today, it is recognized not only for its flavor but also for its history, benefits, and resilience against the changes of time.
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The Chicha Festival in Arequipa: Heritage That Is Celebrated
Since 2013, the Arequipa Picantera Society has organized the “Fiesta de la Chicha,” an annual celebration that pays homage to this sacred beverage. It takes place every first Friday of August in the Plaza de Armas and includes civic activities, dances, traditional dishes, live music, and tasting of the best Arequipa chicha.
This event seeks to preserve Arequipa’s cultural identity, highlighting the importance of chicha in traditional picanterías, where it remains the best accompaniment to iconic dishes like shrimp chupe, adobo, or ocopa.
Origins of Chicha de Guiñapo: From the Incas to the Colonial Era
Arequipa chicha has pre-Hispanic roots. It was a ceremonial drink among the original cultures of the valley, such as the Yanahuaras, Kuntis, and Chumbivilcas, and later adopted by the Incas as a ritual symbol. The name “guiñapo” comes from Quechua and means “to ripen” or “to age,” referring to the corn germination process.
During the colonial era, its popularity was such that it began to worry the authorities. In 1575, Viceroy Toledo prohibited its production, considering it part of pagan rituals. However, the drink survived in clandestine settings, resurging strongly in the 18th century when historian Ventura Travada already counted more than 3,000 chicherías in Arequipa.
How is authentic Chicha de Guiñapo made?
Although each picantería has its secret, the traditional preparation process follows basic steps that guarantee its ancestral flavor:
- Germination of black corn (guiñapo) for about 15 days.
- Grinding of the germinated grains to form a coarse flour.
- Prolonged cooking in a clay or metal pot, preferably with firewood.
- Filtering of the liquid to remove solid residues.
- Natural fermentation in large clay chombas for one or more days.
The result is a dark-colored drink, slightly acidic, refreshing, and with low alcoholic content, perfect for accompanying Arequipa cuisine.
What you might not have known about Chicha de Guiñapo
- It is rich in antioxidants, ideal for circulation and cardiovascular health.
- It is said to have been present at the founding of Arequipa when the wine brought by the Spanish ran out.
- For centuries, chicherías were identified by red or white flags hung on their doors.
- Today, many sillar constructions in Arequipa were made possible thanks to the strength of the workers… and the chicha that accompanied them!
Current Challenges: Protecting Arequipa Black Corn
The production of Chicha de Guiñapo faces a modern threat: the contamination of land and water in agricultural areas like Paucarpata, Yumina, and Characato, where black corn is grown. The use of land for urbanization and soil salinization have reduced the availability of raw material.
It is essential for authorities and the population to promote conservation and revalorization efforts for this ancestral beverage, so that future generations can continue to enjoy a true emblem of regional identity.
Drinking Chicha de Guiñapo is tasting history, culture, and tradition. Each sip tells a part of Arequipa’s past, from Inca ceremonies to current picanterías. Whether for its flavor, nutritional value, or cultural heritage, Chicha de Guiñapo remains a source of pride for Arequipa.